Broom Finish

Broom the surface by running a concrete broom perpendicular to the slope, if there is one. On concrete that’s intended to drain, though, broom marks should be run towards the drain. One thing to note is that a broom-finished exterior surface is just as durable as a smooth finish.

We use a horsehair broom when doing a broom finish.

Salt Finish

As the name implies, a salt finish is traditionally achieved with the same coarse rock salt sold for use in water softeners or as a deicer in winter. Concrete finishers broadcast the salt particles over wet concrete and then press the grains into the surface with a float or roller. After the concrete sets (typically after 24 hours), they power wash the salt away, revealing a speckled pattern of shallow indentations left by the dislodged salt particles.

While salt imprinting is relatively quick and easy to master, there are newer methods that can speed up the process by doing away with the salt altogether.

Salt finishes are more commonplace in the warmer western and southern regions of the country. The reason: In areas subject to freezing weather, water tends to collect in the indentations and freeze, potentially causing spalling. But if you like the look and use good-quality concrete protected by a waterproofing sealer, a salt finish should be durable enough to endure any climate.

Stamped (Decorative) Concrete

Stamped concrete, often called textured or imprinted concrete, replicates stones, such as slate and flagstone, tile, brick and even wood. The wide variety of pattern and color choices make it popular for beautifying patios, pool decks, driveways and more. Additionally, it’s an affordable paving option that requires less maintenance than other materials.

Our Stamp Patterns Include:

• Old Granite
• Belgium Slate
• Italian Slate
• Roman Slate
• Ashlar Slate
• Flagstone
• London Cobblestone
• Random Stone

Exposed Aggregate

Once the concrete has been placed, the decorative aggregate is ready to be revealed. There are several exposure methods contractors can choose from, depending on the look desired and size of the project. Only the top of the stone is exposed while the rest remains permanently embedded in the concrete. The general rule of thumb is to remove the surface mortar to a depth no more than one-third the diameter of the aggregate particle.

Brushing and washing

This is the oldest method and the simplest because it doesn’t require chemical retarders or special tools. You just wash away the thin layer of surface mortar covering the aggregate by spraying with water and scrubbing with a broom until the aggregate is exposed to the desired depth. The timing of the operation is critical, however, so this method is often better suited for small jobs. The work should begin as soon as the surface mortar can be removed without overexposing or dislodging the aggregate. You can test this by lightly brushing away the surface mortar in a small area with a stiff nylon-bristle broom.

Some Exposed aggregates require a hand seeding of the exposed rock, which can cause a variation in the cost of the finished product.

Pressure Wash and Seal

When we seal a job that is not a same day pour; we like to ensure the surface is clean so we like to pressure wash and then seal next day. Same day sealing can be accommodated if weather permits. There is a sealer that can be used on the day of pouring concrete fresh, which is known as a Cure and Seal product. Typically most contractors will try to have you seal your concrete for various reasons, but it is truly up to the homeowner. In most cases, if you get a decorative finish you are going to want to invest in keeping it a nice as possible as long as possible. Here are a few questions and answers when it comes to seal.

Should I seal my concrete?
All concrete should be sealed for specific purposes such as stain repellence, dust reduction, abrasion resistance, chemical resistance or to maintain an attractive appearance. We recommend only if you get a stamped finish and/or color added to concrete mix.

What happens if I don’t seal my concrete?
Concrete is a porous material that readily absorbs liquids. In freeze-thaw climates, the expansion of frozen liquids can destroy the surface of unsealed concrete. Oil, salt, fertilizer, and other household chemicals can discolor and damage unsealed concrete.

Can I apply the sealer myself?
Yes, only after 28 days can seal be applied to a freshly poured concrete surface.  We recommend only using an acrylic-based sealer. It can be rolled on with a paint roller and paint brush or with an industrial sprayer with a threaded hose.

Will seal make my concrete slippery?
Slightly, but there are anti-skid additives that can make it slip resistant

How often should my concrete be sealed?
Most contractors will say every 2-3 years. We recommend every year if you want to keep that concrete looking nice for a long period of time.